The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a buddy baked a stupendous double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by a stupendous winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mixture of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the right instance of a brief checklist of the best elements coming collectively into one thing way more than then sum of their components.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, that means that you would be able to add seasonal elements to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized facet of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a spread of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so you probably have it (and it’s best to!) be sure you have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her authentic had chard. I take advantage of plenty of scallions in mine. Briefly, it’s a type of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up approach again in 2005 when she wrote in regards to the Judy panade recipe right here.
I’m going to dive in and reply a variety of questions right here which may pop up. The ingredient checklist for this panade couldn’t be easier, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.
What Type of Bread for this Panade?
The quick reply is an efficient, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That mentioned, I may even argue that numerous that is private choice. In case you bake sourdough at residence, by all means, use that. Both of these selection will possible lead to a properly structured panade with good distinction between among the parts. The bread selection is such an enormous deal on this recipe, each will impression your finish consequence immensely. I realized the arduous approach after I used a extra industrial sourdough loaf to make the panade one evening – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured stoop. You need the bread to place up a combat and maintain a little bit of pressure. Not go to mush altogether. The very best model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old home made sourdough made with wild rice in it. 
Crust or no Crust?
There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve executed crustless variations earlier than. In case you determine you like an excellent oozy, silky panade, go crustless. In case you like your panade to have extra construction, maintain your crust. Or go 50/50!
What’s the Greatest Broth for Panade?
We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth we now have round or within the freezer (defrost). I like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however should you’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a rooster broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.
Can I take advantage of a Completely different Cheeses on this Panade?
You may! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that considered one of my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I favor barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with a minimum of a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too gentle.
Can I Make this Forward of Time?
I typically make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which another fillings that I would have the ability to pre-roast.
Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades
Once more, that is private choice. After you bake panade a few times you’ll begin to get a way of what type you favor. You may go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe under goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.
This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It appears so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely shocking. It’s the last word consolation dish that I hope you get pleasure from as a lot as I’ve through the years. Due to Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!
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